The making
I have been cleaning and organizing my office/studio, trying to make it more suitable for videoing tutorials. This has meant going through all manner of bags of yarn and putting all the fluffy goodness where it is supposed to be.
I’m pretty good (bad?) at using the big% off a single item coupon from Michael’s and Joann or seeing a new-to-me yarn being used by a friend on facebook or instagram and will put a single skein in my amazon cart to test out their find. This means that I have many single skeins of multiple yarns. And occasionally, many skeins of the same yarn but in multiple colors.
The yarn
Many skeins of multiple colors- this is exactly my stash of Scarfie.
6 skeins – 6 colors
Putting them all in the same cubby sparked an “a-ha!”. All different, but 4 would easily go from one to another. The remaining 2 will do the same, saving that thought for another day 🙂
Pondering the yarn as it lay lined up on the desk in front of me, the “what to make” question was answered pretty quick.
Obviously, this pile needed to be a big, fat, squishy, snuggly, winter shawl.
The Why
There are so many beautiful, triangle shawls available.
But there is one thing about them that keeps me from grabbing my hook- the shape.
I am a plus-size lady, which means i need my shawls to have a longer ‘wingspan’ to comfortably fit around my body.
I am also a short lady- not quite 5’2″.
Most shawls are right triangles, having a 90 degree angle at the center point. This makes for such a beautiful design, especially in these ombre style yarns.
But, as I continue to repeat the rows to get my needed length, the depth of the shawl grows way beyond me. I end up with the tip of my accessory shawl that hangs to my knees- which would be great, if that was my intention. But its usually not.
So, I decided this yarn is the perfect opportunity for me to fill a gap in my wardrobe (that is, if my daughter doesn’t steal it!): A giant super squishy shawl that wraps me fully when wanted and is also short enough to be fashionable if worn bandana style.
Another scarfie option
This is Haystacks, another crochet shawl using the Scarfie yarn (2 skeins).
Haystacks is also a bit more shallow at the center point than a lot of shawls available (finished measurements: 19″ [48 cm] deep X 94″ [239 cm] wingspan using 2 skeins), but it is worked tip to tip, so the color changes of Scarfie show up vertically for this piece.
The skills you need
The Wrap Up Shawl is not difficult to make and because this is made using a bulky yarn, it goes much faster than you think it will.
There are 2 stitches that may be new to you, but instructions are given and if you aren’t feeling adventurous, alternatives are listed under “Special Stitches”.
chain – stacked tr – triple(treble) – double – puff stitch (see special stitches)
The video below is for a stacked dc, for a stacked tr, simple complete a third sc in the “stack”. See my tutorials page for more help.
Helpful How To - New Skein
Shown: switching from Cream/Teal to Cream/Silver
It is important to note that all ombre/color shifting skeins will be different, even skeins of the same color. One may begin with a cream and end in teal when the next could begin and end in cream.
To smoothly transition:
When nearing the end of a skein, if the yarn is beginning a shift into the next non-connecting color, cut the yarn before the color change. Save for fringe. Shown: the cream is beginning to have strands of teal running through the yarn. Because the connecting color is cream, the teal is cut off and used as fringe, later.
The 2nd skein begins with a few yards of silver. Wind this off or (as shown) slide the top layer of yarn off the skein, find the beginning of solid cream, cut away the silver, setting it aside to be used as fringe.
Repeat for 3rd skein.
Note: Due to the size of the shawl/length of the rows, it is not necessary to attempt accurate measurements of how much of a color is used when finishing and beginning new skeins. The sample shown uses the full length of connecting color at the end of a skein before cutting. As new skein begins, the non-connecting color is cut away as soon as the connecting color emerges as a solid. This gives the possibility of using 2 full lengths of the cream (as shown), or partial length at the end or beginning (or both), depending on how the skein was created. This variation of color length will make each shawl unique and should not cause you concern.
Prefer a PDF?
Yes, this page has complete directions for creating the Wrap Up Shawl – or – you can inexpensively purchase the pattern HERE (Etsy) or HERE (LoveCrochet) and you will receive an ad-free pdf download, which also includes:
- Stitch diagrams for each row
The pattern
Wrap Up Shawl
A crochet pattern, by Rebecca Velasquez
#WrapUpShawl
SHOW IT OFF! Tag @RV.designs (instagram) and use this hashtag to share your progress and squishy new shawl.
YARN: Bulky weight (#5 bulky); 312* (624*, 838 yds[285 (570, 765 m]); shown: Lion Brand Scarfie, (78% acrylic 22% wool; 312 yd[285 m]/5.29 oz[150 g]), 3 skeins; 1 each Cream/Teal (0 yds remaining), Cream/Silver(0 yds remaining), Mint/Silver (98 yds remaining); *yardage listed is without fringe.
Other yarns to try:
Lion Brand Color Made Easy 100% acrylic, 247 yds [226 m]; if you’re thinking about making this in a saturated solid, this yarn would be a great choice, and is easy on the budget, too!
Berroco Vintage Chunky 50% wool 40% acrylic 10% nylon, 136 yds [124 m]; if you like your winter pieces to have wool in them, Vintage is the way to go. It is truly one of my favorites (by the way, this comes in dk, ww, and chunky!)
Caron Latte Cakes 58% acrylic 42% nylon, 530 yds [485 m], this one is a little fuzzy and comes is SO MANY color choices.
HOOK: K/10.5 – 6.5 mm, or size to obtain gauge
NOTIONS: Tapestry needle
GAUGE: 10 sts and 4 rows = 4” [10 cm] in pattern. Precise gauge is not needed for this item. After working 7 rows of pattern, shawl should measure (approx.) 7” [18 cm] deep at center and 16” [40.5 cm] wingspan.
SIZES: Small (Medium, Large); shown: Large (model is 5’8”)
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS: 18” (26”, 34”) [46 (66, 86.5 cm)] deep at center x 54” (78”, 102”) [137 [198, 259) cm] wingspan
PROJECT LEVEL: Easy +; adventurous beginner
TECHNIQUES USED: chain–stacked tr –double –puff stitch (see special stitches)
Ya’ll, please read the notes. I know there are a a lot on this one. They each have purpose and will be helpful in your stitching and keep your crochet stress-free.
NOTES:
- Gauge is not crucial to this project.
- Shawl is worked from center-out, growing in width and depth with each row, top edging stitches are worked at the same time as the shawl body, fringe is then added to side edges.
- Each row is a mirror of itself; worked from beginning to center, then reversing the stitches to end.
- When working across a row, the double crochets of V-stitch from row below are treated as regular dc.
- When directed to work “in V-stitch”, place stitches in the ch-2 sp of V-stitch from row below.
- Beginning with Row 5, work each ‘Patterned Row’ across until the repeat can not be fully completed; do not work partial repeats, these directions are written separately as “center” within each numbered row.
- Patterned Rows list stitch pattern repeats (repeated stitches from * ), as well as number of specialty stitches per row; when the numbers differ it is due to a partial repeat either at beginning of row or just before center point; the numbers given are for half rows- from beginning up to center point; the second half from center point to end will be a mirror of first half.
- Read through each line before beginning to avoid any confusion during stitching.
- Refer to special stitches instruction as needed.
- Refer to New Skein- How To for instructions on making a smooth transition (above).
- Refer to Fringe- How To for a tutorial (below).
ABBREVIATIONS:
Ch – chain
Dc – double crochet
Ea– each
Patt–pattern
Rep – repeat
Sc – single crochet
Sk – skip
Sp(s) – space(s)
St(s) – stitch(es)
Tr –treble/triple crochet
WS –wrong side
Yo– yarn over (hook)
SPECIAL STITCHES:
Stacked tr (stacked treble/triple crochet): Sc in indicated st, (insert hook behind leftmost vertical bar of sc just made and pull up a loop, yo and draw through 2 loops on hook) twice. Alternatively: You may replace this with a traditional ch-3 if desired.
This video tutorial is for a stacked dc, for a stacked tr, simple complete a third sc in the “stack”. Video Link.
V-stitch: (Dc, ch 2, dc) in sp indicated.
Puff: (Dc, ch 1, [yo, working from front to back, insert hook around body of dc just made, pull up a loop] 4 times, yo, draw through all loops on hook, ch 1) in indicated stitch. Alternatively: You may replace this with a traditional 4dc bobble stitch if desired {[Yo, insert hook into st indicated, pull up a loop, yo, draw through 2 loops on hook] 4 times, yo, draw through remaining loops on hook, ch 1}.
Tutorials page
Patterned Row Instructions
Shell Row: Stacked tr in first tr, tr in next 2 tr, ch 1, 3 dc in ch-3 sp, ch 1, sk dc, shell in next dc, * ch 1, sk 5 dc, shell in next dc; rep from * across to center; work center; rep from * across, ch 1, 3 dc in ch-3 sp, ch 1, tr in 3 tr, turn.
Column A Row: Stacked tr in first tr, tr in next 2 tr, ch 2, dc in 3 dc, * ch 1, dc in 5 dc; rep from * across to center; work center; rep from * across until 3 dc remain, ch 1, dc in 3 dc, ch 2, tr in 3 tr, turn.
Spaced Row: Stacked tr in first tr, tr in next 2 tr, ch 3, (dc, ch 1) in 3 dc, * [dc in dc, ch 1, sk dc] twice, dc in next dc, ch 1; rep from * across to center; work center; rep from * across until 3 dc remain, (dc, ch 1) in 2 dc, dc in next dc, ch 3, tr in 3 tr, turn.
Column B Row: Stacked tr in first tr, tr in next 2 tr, ch 1, 3 dc in ch-3 sp, * ch 1, sk ch, dc in next 5 sts; rep from * across to center; work center; rep from * across ch 1, 3 dc in ch-3 sp, ch 1, tr in 3 tr, turn.
Puff Row: Stacked tr in first tr, tr in next 2 tr, ch 2, dc in dc, ch 1, puff stin next dc, ch 1, dc in next dc, * ch 1, dc in dc, ch 1, sk dc, puff in next dc, ch 1, sk dc, dc in next dc; rep from * across to center, work center; rep from * across until 3 dc remain, ch 1, dc in dc, ch 1, puff stin next dc, ch 1, dc in next dc, ch 2, tr in 3 tr, turn.
Bridge Row: Stacked tr in first tr, tr in next 2 tr, ch 3, dc in dc, dc in ch-1 sp, ch 1, sk puff st, dc in ch-1 sp, dc in dc, * ch 1, dc in dc, dc in ch-1 sp, ch 1, sk puff st, dc in ch-1 sp, dc in dc; rep from * across to center, work center, dc in dc, dc in ch-1 sp, ch 1, sk puff st, dc in ch-1 sp, dc in dc; rep from * across, ch 3, tr in 3 tr, turn.
Solid A Row: Stacked tr in first tr, tr in next 2 tr, ch 1, 3 dc in ch-3 sp, dc in eastacross, V-stitch in V-stitch, dc in eastacross, 3 dc in ch-3 sp, tr in 3 tr, turn.
Solid B Row: Stacked tr in first tr, tr in next 2 tr, ch 2, 2 dc in first dc, , dc in eastacross, V-stitch in V-stitch, dc in eadc across, 2 dc in last dc, ch 2, tr in 3 tr, turn.
Solid C Row: Stacked tr in first tr, tr in next 2 tr, ch 3, 2 dc in first dc, , dc in eastacross, V-stitch in V-stitch, dc in eadc across, 2 dc in last dc, ch 3, tr in 3 tr, turn.
SHAWL
Row 1: Ch 7, tr in back ridge of 5th ch from hook, tr in back ridge of remaining 2 ch, turn.
Row 2: Stacked tr [see Special Stitches] in first tr, tr in next 2 tr, ch 2, (dc, ch 1, V-stitch, ch 1, dc) in ch-4 sp, ch 2, tr in unused loops of next 3 foundation ch, turn.
Row 3: Stacked tr in first tr, tr in next 2 tr, ch 3, dc in dc, dc in ch-1 sp, dc in dc, (dc, V-stitch, dc) in V-stitch, dc in dc, dc in ch-1 sp, dc in dc, ch 3, tr in 3 tr, turn.
Row 4: Stacked tr in first tr, tr in next 2 tr, ch 1, 3 dc in ch-3 sp, ch 1, sk 2 dc, shell in next dc, ch 1, (dc, ch 1, V-stitch, ch 1, dc) in V-stitch, ch 1, sk 2 dc, shell in next dc, sk 2 dc, ch 1, 3 dc in ch-3 sp, ch 1, tr in 3 tr, turn.
Row 5: Column A Row (1 st patt rep), ch 1 dc in next 3 sts, ch 1, V-stitch in V-stitch, ch 1, dc in next 3 sts; complete Column A Row.
Row 6: Spaced Row (1 st patt rep), dc in dc, ch 1, sk dc, [dc in next dc, ch 1] twice, V-stitch in V-stitch, [ch 1, dc in next dc] twice, ch 1, sk dc, dc in next dc, ch 1; complete Spaced Row.
Row 7: Column B Row (3 st patt rep), ch 1, dc in dc, V-stitch in V-stitch, dc in dc; complete Column B Row.
Row 8: Puff Row (3 st patt rep, 4 puff sts); ch 1, dc in dc, ch 1, sk dc, V-stitch in V-stitch, ch 1, sk dc, dc in next dc; complete Puff Row.
Row 9: Bridge Row (4 st patt rep), ch 1, dc in next 3 sts, V-stitch in V-stitch, dc in next 3 sts; complete Bridge Row.
Row 10: Solid A Row (31 dc, V-stitch, 31 dc).
Row 11: Solid B Row (33 dc, V-stitch, 33 dc).
Row 12: Solid C Row (35 dc, V-stitch, 35 dc).
Row 13: Shell Row (6 st patt rep), ch 1, V-stitch in V-stitch; complete Shell Row.
Row 14: Column A Row (6 st patt rep), ch 1, dc in next dc, V-stitch in V-stitch, dc in dc; complete Column A Row.
Row 15: Spaced Row, (6 st patt rep), dc in dc, ch 1, sk next dc, V-stitch in V-stitch, ch 1, sk dc, dc in next dc, ch 1; complete Spaced Row.
Row 16: Column B Row (COUNT), ch 1, dc in next 3 sts, V-stitch in V-stitch, dc in next 3 sts; complete Column B Row.
Row 17: Puff Row (7 st patt rep, 9 puff sts), ch 1, dc in dc, ch 1, sk dc, puff in next dc, ch 1, sk dc, V-stitch in V-stitch, ch 1, sk dc, puff in next dc, ch 1, sk next dc, dc in next dc; complete Puff Row.
Row 18: Bridge Row (9 st patt rep), V-stitch in V-stitch, dc in dc, dc in ch-1 sp, ch 1, sk puff st, dc in ch-1 sp, dc in dc; complete Bridge Row.
Row 19: Solid A Row (57 dc, V-stitch, 57 dc).
Row 20: Solid B Row (59 dc, V-stitch, 59 dc).
Row 21: Solid C Row (61 dc, V-stitch, 61 dc).
Fasten off for size Small.
Row 22: Shell Row (10 st patt rep), ch 1, sk 5 dc, dc in next dc, V-stitch in V-stitch, dc in next dc; complete Shell Row.
Row 23: Column A Row (10 st patt rep), ch 1, dc in next 2 dc, V-stitch in V-sittch, dc in next 2 dc; complete Column A Row.
Row 24: Spaced Row (10 st patt rep), dc in next dc, ch 1, sk next dc, V-stitch in V-stitch, ch 1; complete Spaced Row.
Row 25: Column B Row (11 st patt rep), ch 1, sk ch, dc in next 4 sts, V-stitch in V-stitch, dc in next 4 sts; complete Column B Row.
Row 26: Puff Row (12 st patt rep, 13 puff sts), V-stitch in V-stitch, dc in dc, ch 1, sk dc, puff in next dc, ch 1, sk dc, dc in next dc; complete Puff Row
Row 27: Bridge Row (13 st patt rep), ch 1, V-stitch in V-stitch; complete Bridge Row
Row 28: Solid A Row (82 dc, V-stitch, 82 dc).
Row 29: Solid B Row (84 dc, V-stitch, 84 dc).
Row 30: Solid C Row (86 dc, V-stitch, 86 dc).
Fasten off for size Medium.
Row 31: Shell Row (13 st patt rep, 14 shells), ch 1, sk 5 dc, dc in next dc, ch 1, dc in next dc, V-stitch in V-stitch, dc in next dc, ch 1, dc in next dc; complete Shell Row.
Row 32: Column A Row, (14 st patt rep), ch 1, dc in next 4 sts, V-stitch in V-stitch, dc in next 4 sts; complete Column A Row.
Row 33: Spaced Row, (14 st patt rep), [dc in dc, ch 1, sk dc] twice, dc in next dc, V-stitch in V-stitch, [dc in dc, ch 1, sk dc] twice, dc in next dc; complete Spaced Row.
Row 34: Column B Row (16 st patt rep), ch 1, V-stitch in V-stitch; complete Column B Row.
Row 35: Puff Row (16 st patt rep), ch 1, dc in dc, V-stitch in V-stitch, dc in dc, complete Puff Row.
Row 36: Bridge Row (16 st patt rep), ch 1, dc in 2 dc, V-stitch in V-stitch, dc in 2; complete Bridge Row.
Row 37:Solid A Row, (108 dc, V-stitch, 108 dc).
Row 38: Solid B Row, (110 dc, V-stitch, 110 dc).
Row 39: Solid C Row, (112 dc, V-stitch, 112 dc).
Fasten off.
Finishing
Weave in ends. Lightly block, if desired.
FRINGE
Shown: each strand is 18” [46 cm], resulting in 8½” [21.5 cm] fringe; 5 strands per fringe; 43 fringe; 215 strands; 108 yds[119 m].
Determine length of fringe desired.
Allowing enough length for the ‘knot’ of fringe, cut number of strands needed twice the chosen length for fringe.
For the sample, yarn was wrapped around a shoebox lid, then cut along 1 edge.
With Wrong Side of shawl facing, insert hook front to back under both loops of stitch, fold strands in half, place all strands over hook, pull partially through, creating a large loop.
Putting hook aside, reaching through loop, grab strand tails, pull through loop.
Gently, but firmly, pull tails to tighten fringe, creating a cow hitch knot. Placing hand on stitch/shawl at point of attachment while pulling fringe tight, will keep the stitch from becoming stretched and misshapen.
Evenly distribute fringe along side edges.
Sample fringe placement: 1 at center point, 1 at beginning of each stitch repeat (every 6 sts), 1 at each tip, then 1 evenly placed between center point and next fringe to fill gap.
#WrapUpShawl
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Other free crochet sweater patterns you may like:
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Rebecca,
Thank you very much for creating such a beautiful shawl. I am also plus size and hate how a triangle shawl reaches so low at the back. I love creating these wraps that have a slight curved bottom.
Keep up the good work.
The length/depth ratio change creates a bit of a challenge, but I think it’s worth it!
Yes! I love crescent-shaped shawls, they wrap so beautifully!
I’m glad you like this one, I hope you’ll show off your version for us to admire 🙂
The perfect shawl! Thank you!
PS. How many tassels please? I need to make them before I start so I don’t run out of yarn x
Hello, Leanne.
For the Full-size shawl, I used a total of 43 tassels, 21 on each side with 1 in the center.
I hope this helps 🙂
~r