Yes, you can do it!
Even if you’re new to Tunisian crochet, I absolutely believe you can make the Wyss Shawl. This is one of those cases where it looks much harder than it actually is.
Everything you need to create this shawl is here.
I love love love Tunisian simple stitch. The rhythm to the stitches is very relaxing and the solid, grid-style fabric it creates is very soothing to watch grow, row by row.
The Daisy stitch looks complicated, but just with traditional crochet, it’s all about yarn overs and where to place your hook. Give it a try before you decide its beyond your skill… you just might surprise yourself! 🥰
more!
Believe it or not, this shawl has been in limbo in my office for years.
Yep. It is one of those pieces that I dreamed up while I was focused on publishing my patterns through magazines.
Way back before Tunisian was cool 😂
I’m very happy to finally get this fun and a bit quirky little shawl out into the world and introduce it as the next piece in the Revel Signature Collection.
About the yarn
Cambria is such a lovely yarn. It has just the right amount of linen fibers that are a bit unruly.
Overall, cambria has a rustic “feel│vibe”, which I think adds to the appeal of the simplicity of the Tunisian Simple Stitch.
Berroco Cambria
Other yarns that would be great for a Wyss Shawl
LB Collection Superwash Merino
Lion Brand website-
#3 | Light
-
100% Superwash Merino Wool
Lion Brand Feels Like Alpaca
Joann website-
#3 | Light
-
87% Acrylic, 7% Polyester, 6% Nylon
The sizes available
The Wyss Shawl is written for 1 size that will fit the average Teen│Adult. You can easily make it smaller or larger, just make sure to increase or decrease the size by following the pattern repeats. Doing it this way will ensure that the Simple stitch and Daisy stitch patterns line up.
More shawls?
the skills you need
chain – simple stitch – full stitch – Tunisian double crochet – daisy stitch
Prefer to work with stitch diagrams?
This post for the Wyss Shawl has complete directions – or – you can further support this website (& have my eternal gratitude) and inexpensively purchase the pattern as a download.
You will receive a linked pdf:
- Ad-Free
- Written instruction – Fully written, line by line instruction (English, US terminology with imperial and metric measurements)
- Stitch Diagrams – Complete illustration(s) of stitches│placement
- Schematic – illustration(s) of shape│measurements & construction graphics
- Illustrations – drawn graphics of special stitches
- Interactive – Linked resource information
Getting started
Ya’ll know how I feel about making gauge swatches.
It is typically very important that you make them.
However, gauge is not crucial for this project.
While Gauge is not essential for this project, any deviation from gauge given will vary the size of shawl created and the amount(s) of yarn used.
But while you’re here, grab this helpful worksheet I created for you to use on your next project, when making a gauge swatch will be a big deal. Save this worksheet to your digital notebook or print a few of these off if you’re a paper planner person.
This will make the swatch process easier and more enjoyable. I created this FREE worksheet as an easy way to figure out gauge, it’s especially helpful if you’re new and still learning all the ways to be successful with your crochet. This worksheet organizes your stitching information and the fill-in-the-blanks makes the math stress free.
Blocking Worksheet
Did you know I make Tiny Tutorials for many useful techniques, tips and tricks?
Subscribe to my YouTube Channel so you don’t miss the next video.
The pattern
wyss
A free Tunisian crochet shawl pattern, by Rebecca Velasquez
#WyssShawl
SHOW IT OFF! Tag @RV.designs (instagram) and use the #WyssShawl hashtag to share your in-progress pics of your fun projects!
MATERIALS & TOOLS
YARN DK weight (#3 light); 430 yd [394 m], total.
Shown Berroco Cambria (60% Alpaca (Baby), 20% Linen, 20% Lyocell; 137 yd [125 m]/1.75 oz [50 g]), in #7942 Oak; 2 hanks and #7935 Juniper; 2 hanks
*Amount given is for shawl as shown | written. Yardage will vary with any alterations of pattern.
HOOK Cabled Tunisian K- [6.50 mm]; or size needed to obtain gauge
NOTIONS Yarn needle
For a complete list of all the tools & supplies I use, find it HERE.
Gauge
15 sts and 12 rows = 4” [10 cm] in Tunisian simple stitch pattern after light blocking.
Finished MEasurements
WINGSPAN 80” [203 cm] after blocking; 48″ [122 cm] after blocking
DEPTH (at deepest point) 15½” [39.5 cm] after blocking
Project Level
Easy+ ; basic Tunisian stitches with increases & decreases, color changes.
TECHNIQUES USED
chain – simple stitch – full stitch – Tunisian double crochet – daisy stitch
NOTES
GENERAL
- Pattern is written in US terms with imperial and metric measurements.
- Pattern is written for 1 size.
- Yarn amount(s) given is for shawl as shown│written. Yardage [m] will vary with any alterations of pattern.
- Read through each line before beginning to avoid any confusion during stitching.
- Refer to special stitches instruction and pictures as needed.
- While gauge is not crucial for this project, any deviation from gauge given will vary the size of shawl created and the amount(s) of yarn used.
- It is recommended to block completed shawl to “open” lace stitches. Refer to Blocking: A Guide for basic blocking methods│instructions.
Blocking Note Due to the square nature of Tunisian simple stitches in this pattern, if pinned on a row-by-row basis, the finished result will have a “stair step” effect on the increasing edge of the shawl. If this is not desired, pull fabric taught and into a straight line while pinning. After dry, the fabric may relax into a slight wave along the edge.
CONSTRUCTION
Shawl is worked tip to tip, increasing to center then decreasing to end.
UNDERSTANDING THE PATTERN & SIZING
- Shawl is worked flat, in one piece, in rows.
- Yarn is cut with each color change, it is not carried (floated) up the side.
- Number after period (.) at the end of rows is the stitch count; 8 sts. This means the row just completed should have 8 stitches.
- If no stitch count is given at the end of row, stitch total did not change from previous listing.
- Special Stitches instructions are detailed, written│drawn directions on how to complete specialty stitches as worked within this pattern.
- Wyss is a Tunisian crochet pattern.
UNDERSTANDING TUNISIAN CROCHET
- Tunisian crochet is worked on the Right Side (RS), never turning the work.
- Tunisian crochet rows are worked in 2 parts- Forward Pass (FP), pulling up loops│stitches, leaving all loops on hook and Return Pass (RP), working loops off hook.
- When beginning a FP, the loop on hook ALWAYS counts as a stitch.
- When working a FP, ALWAYS skip first (edge) vertical bar, unless otherwise directed.
- While the loop on hook counts as first stitch of FP, it is assumed and NOT written into the row instruction; the first written stitch is to be worked under│with 2nd vertical loop, unless otherwise directed.
- When working a FP, the last stitch of the row is ALWAYS worked as an Edge stitch {see Special Stitches}.
- Each RP is worked as Basic RP {see Special Stitches}, unless otherwise directed.
- When working into a dec of previous row, work under both vertical loops created by dec as one.
ABBREVIATIONS & SPECIAL STITCHES
Ch – chain
Dc – double crochet
ES – Edge stitch
FP – forward pass
Rem – remain(s)
Rep – repeat
RP – return pass
RS – right side
St(s) – stitch(es)
Tdc – Tunisian double crochet
Tfs – Tunisian full stitch
Tks – Tunisian knit stitch
Tss – Tusinisian simple stitch
Yo – yarn over (hook)
SPECIAL STITCHES
Back ridge Rather than working under the top loops or ‘V’ of foundation chain, turn chain upside-down, insert hook under the single strand of yarn that is bump│ridge-like in appearance.
RP (basic return pass) Yo, draw through 1 loop on hook, *yo, draw through 2 loops on hook; rep from * across to end.
Tss (Tunisian simple stitch) Beginning with the second vertical bar, * insert hook under the front vertical bar, pull up a loop.
ES (edge stitch) Insert hook under the front vertical bar as well as the leftmost back loop of st, pull up a loop.
Tfs inc (Tunisian full stitch increase) Insert hook into the space between first and second set of vertical loops that form stitches, pull up a loop.
Tdc (Tunisian double crochet) Yo, insert hook in st, pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), yo, draw through 2 loops, leave rem loop on hook.
Color change When working RP, work in pattern until 2 loops rem on hook, drop “working” yarn, leaving a tail of at least 6“ [15 cm], pick up new yarn, yo, draw through rem 2 loops on hook. Leaving a tail of at least 6” [15 cm], cut old yarn.
• When working FP, work in pattern until 1 st rem, insert hook in last st for ES, drop “working” yarn, leaving a tail of at least 6“ [15 cm], using new yarn, pull up a loop. Leaving a tail of at least 6” [15 cm], cut old yarn.
Dec (decrease) Yo, draw through 3 loops on hook.
• When working into a dec on the following FP, insert hook under both vertical loops of dec as one.
Daisy st (Daisy stitch) Worked over a set of 6 sts. In RP, 5 sts are gathered to make the lower “petals“, on next FP, work into the ch that sits atop the petals to create upper petals.
• Instructions begin on RETURN PASS
RP – *yo, draw through 2 loops, ch 2, yo, draw through 6 loops, ch 2; rep
FP – *Tfs around ch 2, 3 Tdc in next st, Tfs around ch 2, Tss in next st; rep
Shawl
Section A
Set up With Color A, ch 3, FP – insert hook in back ridge of 2nd ch from hook {see Special Stitches}, pull up a loop, insert hook in back ridge of next ch, pull up a loop {3 loops on hook}; RP {see Special Stitches}.
Row 1 FP – Tss {see Special Stitches} until 1 st rem, ES {see Special Stitches}; RP. 3 sts
Row 2 FP – Tfs inc {see Special Stitches}, Tss across until 1 st rem, ES; RP. 4 sts
Row 3 FP – Tss across until 1 st rem, ES; RP.
Row 4-89 Rep Rows 2-3. 46 sts.
Row 90 Rep Row 2. 47 sts
Note If changing color for lace│Daisy stitches, refer to Special Stitches for color change instructions to be worked on RP of next row. If not changing color, Rep Row 3.
Row 91 FP – Tss across until 1 st rem, ES; RP with color change {see Special Stitches}.
Section B
Daisy Stripe
Row 92 FP – Ch 1, Tfs inc, Tdc {see Special Stitches}, *3 Tss, 3 Tdc; rep from * across until 3 sts rem, 2 Tss, ES; RP – Ch 1, yo, draw through 1 loop, yo, draw through 4 loops, ch 2, *Daisy st {see Special Stitches}; rep from * across until 3 loops rem, (yo, draw through 2 loops) twice. 48 sts
Note If changed color for lace│Daisy stitches, make change on FP of next row {see Special Stitches}, switching back to color A. If did not make color change, work ES as established for next row.
Row 93 FP – Ch 1, Tss, *Daisy st; rep from * across, Tfs around last ch 2, 2 Tdc in next st, ES with color change; RP.
Rows 94-109 Rep Rows 2-3. 56 sts
Decrease
Row 110 FP – Tss across until 1 st rem, ES; RP until 3 loops rem, dec {see Special Stitches}. 55 sts
Row 111 FP – Tss across until 1 st rem, ES; RP.
Rows 112-133 Reps Rows 110-111. 43 sts
Row 134 Rep Row 110. – 42 sts
Note If changing color for lace│daisy stitches, make change to color B on RP of next row. If not changing color, Rep Row 111.
Row 135 FP – Tss across until 1 st rem, ES; RP with color change.
Section C
Daisy Rows
Row 136 FP – Ch 1, 2 Tdc, *3 Tss, 3 Tdc; rep from * across until 3 sts rem, 2 Tss, ES; RP – Ch 1, yo, draw through 1 loop, yo, draw through 4 loops, ch 2, * Daisy st; rep from * across until 3 loops rem, dec. 41 sts
Row 137 FP – Ch 1, *Daisy st; rep from * across, Tfs around last ch 2, 2 Tdc in next st, ES; RP – Ch 1, yo, draw through 1 loop, *Daisy st; rep from * across until 5 loops rem, (yo, draw through 2 loops) across to end.
Row 138 FP – Ch 1, 3 Tss, *Daisy st; rep from * across, ES; RP – Ch 1, yo, draw through 1 loop, yo, draw through 4 loops, ch 2, *Daisy st; rep from * across until 8 loops rem, yo, draw through 2 loops, ch 2, yo, draw through 5 loops, ch 1, dec. 40 sts
Row 139 FP – Ch 1, sk ch 1, 3 Tdc in next st, Tfs around ch 2, Tss in next st, *Daisy st; rep from * across, Tfs around last ch 2, 2 dc in next st, ES; RP – Ch 1, yo, draw through 1 loop, *Daisy st; rep from * across until 4 loops remain, yo, draw through 2 loops, dec. 39 sts
Row 140 FP – Ch 1, Tss, *Daisy st; rep from * across, ES; RP – Ch 1, yo, draw through 1 loop, yo, draw through 4 loops, ch 2, *Daisy st; rep from * across until 6 loops rem, yo, draw through 2 loops, ch 1, (dec) twice. 38 sts
Row 141 FP – Ch 1, Tss, Tfs around ch 1, Tss in next st, *Daisy st; rep from * across, Tfs around last ch 2, 2 Tdc in next st, ES; RP – Ch 1, yo, draw through 1 loop, *Daisy st; rep from * across, until 8 loops rem, yo, draw through 2 loops, ch 2, yo, draw through 5 loops, ch 1, (yo, draw through 2 loops) to end.
Row 142 FP – Ch 1, Tss, sk ch 1, 3 Tdc in next st, Tfs around ch 2, Tss in next st, *Daisy st; rep from * across, ES; RP – Ch 1, yo, draw through 1 loop, yo, draw through 4 loops, ch 2, *Daisy st; rep from * across until 5 loops rem, (yo, draw through 2 loops) twice, dec. 37 sts
Row 143 FP – Ch 1, 2 Tss, *Daisy st; rep from * across, Tfs around last ch 2, 2 Tdc in next st, ES; RP – Ch 1, yo, draw through 1 loop, *Daisy st; rep from * across until 7 loops rem, yo, draw through 2 loops, ch 2, yo, draw through 4 loops, dec. 36 sts
Row 144 FP – Ch 1, 2 Tdc in next st, Tfs around ch 2, Tss in next st, *Daisy st; rep from * across, ES; RP – Ch 1, yo, draw through 1 loop, yo, draw through 4 loops, ch 2, *Daisy st; rep from * across until 3 loops rem, dec. 35 sts
Rows 145-168 Rep Rows 137-144. 11 sts
Section D
Row 169 FP – Ch 1, Daisy st, Tfs around last ch 2, 2 Tdc in next st, ES; RP – Ch 1, yo, draw through 1 loop, Daisy st, (yo, draw through 2 loops) to end.
Row 170 FP – Ch 1, 3 Tss, Daisy st, ES; RP – Ch 1, yo, draw through 1 loop, yo, draw through 4 loops, ch 2, yo, draw through 2 loops, ch 2, yo, draw through 5 loops, ch 1, dec. 10 sts
Row 171 FP – Ch 1, sk ch 1, 3 Tdc in next st, Tfs around ch 2, Tss in next st, Tfs around last ch 2, 2 Tdc in next st, ES; RP – Yo, draw through 1 loop, Daisy st, yo, draw through 2 loops, dec. 9sts
Row 172 FP – Ch 1, Tss, Daisy st, ES; RP – Ch 1, yo, draw through 1 loop, yo, draw through 4 loops, ch 2, yo, draw through 2 loops, (dec) twice. 8 sts
Row 173 FP – Ch 1, Tss, Tfs around ch 1, Tss in next st, Tfs around last ch 2, 2 Tdc in next st, ES; RP – Ch 1, yo, draw through 1 loop, yo, draw through 2 loops, ch 2, yo, draw through 5 loops, ch 1, (yo, draw through 2 loops) to end.
Row 174 FP – Ch 1, Tss, sk ch 1, 3 Tdc in next st, Tfs around ch 2, Tss, Es; RP – Ch 1, yo, draw through 1 loop, yo, draw through 4 loops, ch 2, (yo, draw through 2 loops) twice, dec. 7 sts
Row 175 FP – Ch 1, 2 Tss, Tfs around ch 2, 2 dc in next st, ES; RP – Ch 1, yo, draw through 1 loop, yo, draw through 2 loops, ch 2, yo, draw through 4 loops, dec. 6 sts
Row 176 FP – Ch 1, 2 Tdc in next st, Tfs around ch 2, Tss, ES; RP – Ch 1, yo, draw through 1 loop, yo, draw through 4 loops, ch 2, dec. 5 sts
Row 177 FP – Ch 1, Tfs around ch 2, 2 Tdc in next st, ES; RP.
Row 178 FP – Tss until 1 st rems, ES; RP – yo, draw through 1 loop, (dec) twice. 3 sts
Row 179 FP – Tss, ES; RP.
Row 180 FP – Tss, ES; RP – yo, draw through 1 loop, dec.
Fasten off.
Finishing
Block to measurements {see Finished Measurements above} if desired, weave in ends.
- Refer to Blocking: A Guide for basic blocking methods│instructions.
Stitch & Share Your Wyss Tunisian Shawl
#WyssShawl and #RevelSignature
When you post the pictures of your amazing new Wyss, please use the hashtags so I see them! – I really do love to see all the wonderful creativity of everyone and I’m anxious to see the fabulous color combos are that you will use!
If you are on Ravelry and you create from one of my patterns, help fellow stitchers and fill out a project page of your piece.
QUESTIONS about this pattern?
Join the RV design group on facebook. It’s a great place where you can ask questions, share project pictures and chit-chat with the rest of us.
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