As summer blasts it’s remaining weeks of heat, I’ve got a FREE crochet top pattern that is fast and easy to keep you hookin’ poolside!
Truly, it took me longer to decide what I wanted the neckline edging to look like than it did to actually crochet the top.
Wearability
Yep, here’s me talking about this again.
Because, ya’ll, its just important.
This crochet stitch pattern is amazing; coverage, but airy. Fancy lace has its place, of course, but for an everyday wear, as this top is for me, a little more subdued fabric is perfect.
Also! It’s completely reversible.
I had every intention of taking pictures with Shirl on with the ballet neckline in front and well, just forgot. ugh. This is why I make lists for everything. :/
Coboo, how I love thee!
Once again, I have chosen Lion Brand Coboo yarn.
The draaaaaaape, ya’ll! It’s just so very soft and dreamy. A little slinky to wear, but not so much so that it is difficult to crochet with.
And it’s just so very affordable
Sizing
There are 10 written sizes for this top. Decide how much ease you’d like for the top to have (how roomy you want the top to be).
Follow the instructions for the size with the finished measurements you want.
There are directions for lengthening and shortening the torso written within the pattern.
The for purchase .pdf includes 2 sizing charts, 1 for chest and another for hip, that have done the math for you on which size will deliver what ease for standard body measurements.
Other designs in Coboo
Skills you'll use
This is a pretty easy garment to make. Don’t be intimidated if you don’t know some of the stitches used. Look for the “Special Stitches” heading and you’ll find written instruction for how to work them, and some have Video, too
Foundation Single Crochet – Chain – Single Crochet – Stacked Double Crochet – Double Crochet – Extended Single Crochet – Slip Stitch – Together – Seaming
Get the linked PDF
A quick little info about this free crochet Shirl top pattern post:
This page has complete directions – or – you can inexpensively purchase the pattern
HERE (Etsy) or HERE (LoveCrochet) or HERE (Payhip) or HERE (Makerist)
and you will receive an linked, ad-free pdf download, which includes:
- Fully written, line by line instruction in English, US terminology with imperial and metric measurements
- Body Stitch diagrams
- Neckline Stitch diagrams
- Schematic of measurements
- Table for stitch counts at neckline
- Table for Ease, Hip & Chest
Get ready...
If you’re not new here, you know what’s coming.
Yep, I’m gonna say it again.
If I’ve said it once, I’ve said it a thousand times- My friend, ya need to swatch. I know its no fun. I know you want to get right to the good stuff. I know it feels like a waste of yarn, and yarn ain’t cheap.
I know. Truly, I know.
But– You want your top to fit properly. This means you need to know how your stitching sizes up to my stitching.
We are all different.
Grumble and grump about it (I do), but do it.
This stitch pattern + yarn make it especially important that you swatch. This fabric GROWS when wet.
To make the process easier and more enjoyable, I’ve created this FREE worksheet for you to use. It helps with the steps, the math, and the organization. Blocking Worksheet
Gauge Swatch
Read through each line before beginning to avoid any confusion during stitching.
Refer to Special Stitches instruction as needed.
Set up: Fsc 29 {see Special Stitches}.
Row 1 (RS) Stacked dc in first sc {see Special Stitches}, dc in each sc across to end, PM in any stitch of row just made to mark Right Side, turn.
Row 2 Ch 1, sc in each dc across to end, turn.
Row 3 Beg esc {see Special Stitches} in first sc, ch 1, sk sc, esc {see Special Stitches}, in next sc, *ch 1, sk sc, esc in next sc; rep from * across to end, turn.
Row 4 Beg esc in first esc, *ch 1, esc in next esc; rep from * across to end, turn.
Rows 5-20 Rep Row 4.
BEFORE BLOCKING
15 sts and 9 rows = 4” [10 cm]
Measure your swatch pre-blocking. If proper gauge is achieved, swatch should not be larger than, and be easily manipulated to reach, 8” [18 cm] h and 8” [18 cm] w.
In the case of this pattern, it is more important to reach width gauge than height. If you are unable to stitch to both, choose the hook | tension that will give you the proper width gauge {stitch count}. Directions for adjusting the length of the top | height stitch gauge {row count} are written within the pattern.
If your swatch is much larger than the gauge stated, create a new swatch with a smaller hook. If it is only slightly too large, can it be reduced by mindfully adjusting your tension? If your swatch is smaller than the gauge stated, manipulate the fabric by hand. Can it reasonably be stretched | eased to reach gauge? If not, create a new swatch with a larger hook.
This gauge swatch should easily wet block to final gauge of 9½” [24 cm] h and 10½” [26.5 cm] w.
For more detailed information on swatching, I have written an easy guide.
If you are unsure of how to or which method of blocking is best, here is a quick article to help.
Another resource I have created for you is a Free Download worksheet to help keep your swatching information organized and a fill-in-the-blank section for the gauge math, making it easy to find the correct numbers.
The Pattern
Shirl
A FREE CROCHET PATTERN, BY REBECCA VELASQUEZ
#ShirlTop
SHOW IT OFF! Tag @RV.designs (instagram) and use this hashtag to share your in-progress pics of your new spring top!
MATERIALS & TOOLS
YARN Dk weight (#3 light)
amount totals 292 (336, 380, 438, 494, 557, 638, 696, 770, 847) yds [268 (308, 348, 401452, 510, 584, 637, 705, 775) m]
shown Lion Brand Coboo yarn, 50% cotton 50% bamboo, 232 yd [212 m], 3.53 oz [100 g]; in Steel Blue; 2 (2, 2, 2, 3, 3, 3, 3, 4, 4) cakes
note Amount given is for top as written. Yardage will vary with any alterations of pattern.
HOOK H- [5.0 mm]; or size needed to obtain gauge
NOTIONS: Locking stitch markers (4), yarn needle
For a complete list of all the tools/supplies I use, find it HERE (affiliate link)
GAUGE
BEFORE BLOCKING
15 sts and 9 rows = 4” [10 cm]
AFTER BLOCKING
12 sts and 8 rows = 4” [10 cm]
SIZES
1 (2, 3, 4, 5, 6 7, 8, 9, 10)
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
chest | hip 33½ (37½, 41½, 45½, 49½, 53½, 57½, 61½, 65½, 69½)” [85 (95.5, 105.5, 115.5, 125.5, 136, 146, 156, 166.5, 176.5) cm] after blocking
hem to shoulder 19½ (20, 20½, 21½, 22, 23, 25, 25, 26, 27)” [49.5 (51, 52, 54.5, 56.5, 59, 63, 64, 66.5, 69) cm] after wet blocking
shown Size 6 {53½” [136 cm]} no alterations to pattern; model is 5’ 2” with 49“ [124.5 cm] chest, 50” [127 cm] hip
PROJECT LEVEL
Easy +
TECHNIQUES USED
Foundation Single Crochet – Chain – Single Crochet – Stacked Double Crochet – Double Crochet – Extended Single Crochet – Slip Stitch – Together – Seaming
NOTES
Pattern is written in US terms with imperial and metric measurements given.
Pattern is written in 10 sizes, with the different sizes given in parentheses: 34 (38, 42,…). If only one number is given, it applies to all sizes.
Tip highlight the numbers for size to be made before beginning to make the pattern easier to follow.
Read through each line before beginning to avoid any confusion during stitching.
Refer to Special Stitches instruction as needed.
Take time to save time. Using same yarn as intended for top, stitch, wash, and block a gauge swatch in the same manner you will be using for your garment to ensure proper measurements.
Depending on the fabric desired, this lace stitch may need “help’ opening up. It is recommended to block the pieces before seaming; Refer to Blocking: A Guide.
If using Lion Brand Coboo yarn, it is ESSENTIAL you block a swatch before creating the garment. This yarn + stitch pattern grows substantially when wet.
CONSTRUCTION
Top is worked in 2 pieces, Front | Back are stitched individually from bottom up then seamed at shoulders and from cuffs to underarms to hem, neckline and sleeve detail are then added.
UNDERSTANDING THE PATTERN & SIZING
Pattern is written for full length, with cropped recommendations provided within the pattern.
For full length sweater- choose sizing from largest of hip or chest measurement, make size according to ease | fit desired.
For cropped sweater- choose sizing from chest measurement, make size according to ease | fit desired.
ABBREVIATIONS
Beg – begin(ning)
Ch – chain
Dc – double crochet
Dec – decrease
Esc – extended single crochet
Fsc – foundation single crochet
Prev – previous
PM – place marker
Rem – remain(ing)
Rep – repeat
RS – right side
Sc – single crochet
Sk – skip
Sl st – slip stitch
Sp(s) – spaces(s)
St(s) – stitch(es)
Tog – together
WS – wrong side
Yo – yarn over (hook)
SPECIAL STITCHES
Foundation single crochet (fsc) Ch 2, insert hook in 2nd ch from hook, yo, pull up a loop, yo, draw through 1 loop (1 chain made), yo, draw through 2 loops on hook (1st foundation single crochet made), *insert hook under the 2 bottommost horizontal bars of the chain just made, yo, pull up a loop, yo, draw through 1 loop (1 chain made), yo and draw through 2 loops on hook (sc made); rep from * for indicated number of foundation sts.
Stacked dc (stacked double crochet): Sc in indicated st, insert hook from front to back in back vertical bar of sc just made and pull up a loop, yo and draw through 2 loops on hook. You may replace this with traditional ch 3 if desired.
VIDEO TUTORIAL
PM (place marker): Place marker in stitch just made or as instructed.
Beg esc (beginning extended single crochet) Single crochet in indicated stitch, ch 1.
When working into beg esc, insert hook into chain of stitch, not sc.
Esc (extended single crochet) Insert hook into st indicated, yo, pull up a loop, yo, draw through 1 loop, yo, draw through 2 loops on hook.
Esc dec (extended single crochet decrease) Insert hook into st indicated, yo, pull up a loop, yo, draw through 1 loop on hook, sk ch, yo, insert hook into next esc, yo, pull up a loop, yo, draw through 2 loops on hook, yo, draw through remaining 3 loops on hook.
Dc2tog (Double crochet 2 together) (Insert hook into st indicated, yo, pull up a loop, yo, draw through 2 loops om hook) 2 times, yo, draw through remaining 3 loops on hook.
Sc3tog (Single crochet 3 together) (Insert hook into st indicated, yo, pull up a loop) 3 times, yo, pull through all 4 loops on hook.
TOP
Front - Vneck
Set up: Fsc 51 (57, 63, 69, 75, 81, 87, 93, 99, 105) {see Special Stitches}.
Row 1 (RS) Stacked dc in first sc {see Special Stitches or Video tutorial}, dc in each sc across to end, PM in any stitch of row just made to mark Right Side, turn. [51 (57, 63, 69, 75, 81, 87, 93, 99, 105) sts]
Row 2 Ch 1, sc in each dc across to end, turn.
PM in 26 (29, 32, 35, 38, 41, 44, 47, 50, 53) st of row just made to mark center stitch for neckline, move marker up with each row.
Row 3 Beg esc {see Special Stitches} in first sc, ch 1, sk sc, esc {see Special Stitches}, in next sc, *ch 1, sk sc, esc in next sc; rep from * across to end, turn. [1 beg esc, 25 (28, 31, 34, 37, 40, 43, 46, 49, 52) ch 1, 25 (28, 31, 34, 37, 40, 43, 46, 49, 52) esc]
Row 4 Beg esc in first esc, *ch 1, esc in next esc; rep from * across to end, turn.
Rows 5-23 {See customizations below} Rep Row 4.
Customizations
Cropped, recommended length 7” [18 cm] (including hem detail) Rows 5-13.
To shorten | lengthen torso, Rep Row 4; refer to gauge for number of repeats necessary to achieve length desired. Make a notation of repeats made for referral when making back.
Rows completed before sleeve _____________
Pattern continued
SLEEVE 1 (right)
Row 24 Ch 6, beg esc in first ch from hook, [ch 1, sk ch, esc in next ch] twice, *ch 1, esc in next esc; rep from * across to end, turn. [1 beg esc, 28 (31, 34, 37, 40, 43, 46, 49, 52, 55) ch 1, 28 (31, 34, 37, 40, 43, 46, 49, 52, 55) esc]
SLEEVE 2 (left)
Row 25 Rep Row 24. [1 beg esc, 31 (34, 37, 40, 43, 46, 49, 52, 55, 58) ch 1, 31 (34, 37, 40, 43, 46, 49, 52, 55, 58) esc]
FRONT
Row 26 Rep Row 4.
NECK | SHOULDER 1 (left)
Row 27 Beg esc in first esc, *ch 1, esc in next esc; rep from * across to 2 esc before marker, esc dec over next 2 esc, leave remaining stitches unworked, turn. [1 beg esc, 14 (16, 17, 19, 20, 22, 23, 25, 26, 28) ch 1, 13 (15, 16, 18, 19, 21, 22, 24, 25, 27) esc, 1 esc dec]
Note If center marker is in esc, the marked esc is 2nd stitch of decrease.
If center marker is in a chain stitch, leave chain unworked, decrease is worked in 2 esc before marker.
Row 28 Beg esc in first st, *ch 1, esc in next esc; rep from * across to end, turn. [1 beg esc, 14 (16, 17, 19, 20, 22, 23, 25, 26, 28) ch 1, 14 (16, 17, 18, 20, 22, 23, 25, 26, 28) esc]
Row 29 Beg esc in first esc, *ch 1, esc in next esc; rep from * across until 2 esc rem, esc dec over last 2 esc, turn. [1 beg esc, 13 (15, 16, 18, 19, 21, 22, 24, 25, 27) ch 1, 11 (13, 14, 15, 17, 19, 20, 22, 23, 25) esc, 1 esc dec]
Rows 30-39 (39, 41, 43, 43, 45, 49, 49, 51, 53) Rep Rows 28 and 29 alternately, fasten off. [1 beg esc, 8 (9, 10, 10, 11, 12, 12, 13, 13, 14) ch 1, 7 (8, 9, 9, 10, 11, 11, 12, 12, 13) esc, 1 esc dec]
NECK | SHOULDER 2 (right)
Row 27 With RS facing, if center marker is in a chain stitch, leave chain unworked, join new yarn to esc just left of marker with sl st, beg esc in same esc as sl st just made, do not remove marker, *ch 1, esc in next esc; rep from * across to end, turn. [1 sl st, 1 beg esc, 15 (17, 18, 20, 21, 23, 24, 26, 27, 29) ch 1, 15 (17, 18, 20, 21, 23, 24, 26, 27, 29) esc]
Row 28 Beg esc in first st, *ch 1, esc in next esc; rep from * across until 2 esc rem, esc dec over last 2 esc, turn. [1 beg esc, 14 (16, 17, 19, 20, 22, 23, 25, 26, 28) ch 1, 12 (14, 15, 17, 18, 20, 21, 23, 24, 26) esc, 1 esc dec]
Row 29 Beg esc in first esc, *ch 1, esc in next esc; rep from * across to end, turn. [1 beg esc, 14 (16, 17, 19, 20, 22, 23, 25, 26, 28) ch 1, 13 (15, 16, 18, 19, 21, 22, 24, 25, 27) esc]
Rows 30-39 (39, 41, 43, 43, 45, 49, 49, 51, 53) Rep Rows 28 and 29 alternately, fasten off. [1 beg esc, 9 (10, 11, 11, 12, 13, 13, 14, 14, 15) ch 1, 9 (10, 11, 11, 12, 13, 13, 14, 14, 15) esc]
Back - Scoop Neck
Work as Front through Row 26.
Row 27 Beg esc in first esc, *ch 1, esc in next esc; rep from * across to end, turn.
Row 28- 35 (35, 37, 39, 39, 41, 45, 45, 47, 49) Rep Row 27.
PM in 11 (12, 13, 13, 14, 15, 15, 16, 16, 17) esc from beginning and end of row just made to mark for neckline.
NECK | SHOULDER 1 (right)
Row 36 (36, 38, 40, 40, 42, 46, 46, 48, 50) Beg esc in first esc, *ch 1, esc in next esc; rep from * across to marker, ch 1, dec over next 2 esc, leave remaining stitches unworked, do not remove marker, turn.
Row 37 (37, 39, 41, 41, 43, 47, 47, 49, 51) Beg esc in first esc, *ch 1, esc in next esc; rep from * across to end, turn.
Row 38 (38, 40, 42, 42, 44, 48, 48, 50, 52) Beg esc in first esc, *ch 1, esc in next esc; rep from * across until 2 esc remain, esc dec over last 2 esc, turn.
Row 39 (39, 41, 43, 43, 45, 49, 49, 51, 53) Rep Row 37 (37, 39, 41, 41, 43, 47, 47, 49, 51), leaving a tail of approximately 3X length of row, fasten off.
NECK | SHOULDER 2 (left)
Row 36 (36, 38, 40, 40, 42, 46, 46, 48, 50) With RS facing join new yarn to esc before marker with sl st, beg esc in same esc as sl st just made, *ch 1, esc in next esc; rep from * across to end, move marker to same esc as joining sl st, turn.
Row 37 (37, 39, 41, 41, 43, 47, 47, 49, 51) Beg esc in first st, *ch 1, esc in next esc; rep from * across until 2 esc rem, ch 1, esc dec over last 2 esc, turn.
Row 38 (38, 40, 42, 42, 44, 48, 48, 50, 52) Beg esc in first esc, *ch 1, esc in next esc; rep from * across to end, turn.
Row 39 (39, 41, 43, 43, 45, 49, 49, 51, 53) Rep Row 37 (37, 39, 41, 41, 43, 47, 47, 49, 51), leaving a tail of approximately 3X length of row, fasten off.
Assembly
It is recommended to block garment to measurements before seaming.
Thread long tail through yarn needle, with RS together, using mattress stitch, sew shoulder seams.
With a length of yarn approximately 3X length of underarm and side, using yarn needle seam from cuff to underam, to hem with mattress stitch.
NECK EDGING
Row 1 With WS facing, join new yarn with sl st at left shoulder seam, working into side edges of stitches when necessary, spacing stitches evenly, sc around to center front marker, skip marked stitch, continue sc evenly around, sl st to first sc to join, move front center marker to sc just left of marked st, move back neck markers up to corresponding sc of row just made, turn.
Row 2 Stacked dc in first sc, dc in each sc to first marker dc2tog over marked sc and next sc, remove marker, dc in each sc to 1 sc before next marker, dc2tog over next sc and marked sc, remove marker, dc in each sc across to 2 sc before marker, dc2tog over next 2 sc, dc2tog over marked sc and next sc, dc2tog over next 2 sc, move marker to second dc2tog just made, dc in each sc across to end, sl st to first dc to join, do not turn.
Row 3 Sc in first dc, sc in each dc to 1 sc before marker, sc3tog over next 3 dc, sc in each dc across to end, sl st to first sc to join, fasten off.
SLEEVE EDGING
With RS facing, join new yarn with sl st to underarm seam, sc in same space as sl st, working into the side edges of sleeve row stitches, spacing stitches evenly, sc around sleeve, sl st to first sc to join, fasten off.
Repeat on second sleeve.
Finishing
Remove marker(s), weave in ends. Lightly block and steam shoulder seams if desired. •
#ShirlTop
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